Rodents

Moles

• Moles are largely beneficial to gardens because they eat insects and slugs. One mole will eat its own weight in insects every day: cutworms, wireworms, sow bugs, grubs, centipedes, and millipedes. They tend to like earthworms too (which is not great because worms are quite beneficial for gardens).
• They can sometimes harm plants by removing the earth around the root structure, and their extensive tunnelling may mar the look of a well-manicured lawn.
• Moles are small, greyish-brown insectivores. THEY ARE NOT RODENTS! They usually measure about 12-20 cm in length. They have small eyes and broad front paws for digging.
• Being insectivores, they do not eat plants. They generally earn the bad reputation of being plant-killers from field mice that use their tunnels to gain access to plant roots (to eat them).
• They are solitary animals that do not hibernate and that prefer soft soil. Their tunnels are usually just under the surface of the lawn, creating ridges running along the property. The most telltale sign of mole activity is a raised pile of earth near the entrance of the burrow. Moles are very territorial creatures.
• Moles breed in late winter or early spring.
• In spring, the female usually gives birth to a litter of 3-7 young. These become adults in 4-8 weeks.

Voles

• Sometimes known as field mice (not really accurate).
• They resemble house mice but are distinguished by a shorter tail and a rounded muzzle and head. They also have smaller ears. Being rodents, they have a pair of large chisel-like incisors that grow continuously.
• They have dark brown coats with greyish bellies. (The house mouse is uniformly grey).
• They forage for green plants and seeds during the day or night, but prefer the daytime.
• They do not hibernate. They use the insulating properties of snow to remain active in the winter by travelling under the snow.
• Voles will tend to move into old mole tunnels to gain access to plant roots. They can also gnaw the ground level bark of fruit trees.
• Symptoms of vole infestation: bark completely removed from the base of the tree, 1-2 inch wide surface runways through matted grass leading to shallow underground burrows, small piles of brownish feces.
• Females have a large reproductive capacity. They are able to reproduce at 3 weeks of age.

Repellents

• There are some ultrasonic devices on the market, but none have been scientifically tested for effectiveness.
• Having family pets in the yard can sometimes deter most rodents.
• For more tips go to Mole Controls

Moles

• For moles, planting spurge (a perennial) has had some repellent effect. Castor bean is also a repellent, but this plant is highly poisonous to humans so it is not suggested!
• Baits do not work against moles because they are insectivores and will therefore rarely take the bait.
• Vibrations tend to disturb moles, so a toy windmill can be put up near the entrance to the burrow. When it turns, it will create enough disturbances in the air to annoy the mole. An empty soda bottle can also be placed in the mouth of the tunnel. The wind will make a blowing vibration that irritates moles.
• Spray a solution of 1 tbsp. castor oil and 1 tbsp. liquid detergent (Ivory) per gallon of warm water on soil and plants.
• Scatter dog hair about.
• Place elderberry cuttings in the tunnels.
• Sprinkle chilli powder and powdered garlic or ground red pepper or tobacco dust into the tunnels on a weekly basis.
• Place rolled-up pieces of "Juicy Fruit" gum in mole tunnels. Make sure you unwrap the gum with gloves on to mask your scent. Moles love the taste and will readily eat it. Unfortunately for the mole, the gum will clog its innards, causing it to die.

Voles

Denatonium benzoate, when sprayed on surfaces to be protected, will deter voles from chewing. It should not be used on food or edible plants.

Self-Help Trapping

• The most effective way to control moles is to trap them. There are several lethal traps on the market. Most operate by beheading the animal. The best time to trap them is in spring or fall.
• There are a number of commercial live-traps on the market. Normal mousetraps (the lethal kind) also work on voles.
• However, for mice or voles, the homeowner can make their own trap by using a wastepaper basket: Place the basket (metal or plastic preferable) in a high-traffic area (mice, not people). Bait the trap with bread, sunflower seeds or peanut butter (voles like bacon). Place a ladder of books or bricks leading up to the basket. Make sure that they support the basket, as it should be tilted up against them. The mouse will use the books to climb up and then slide down the tilted basket. It will not be able to climb back out. Check the trap early in the morning. Once set free outside, clean the basket with a dilute (1:30) solution of bleach.
• It is important to note that trapping is only useful if there are a small number of mice.